Entrance to the Morbihan |
I have been told that Poole harbour is one of the biggest natural harbours in the world! Well watch out because the Morbihan rivals it easily. The harbour has according to the guides approximately 60 islands and many ports marked as anchorages on the chart which the pilot books have not yet caught up with number of mooring buoys that have been laid to fill the gaps.
Notwithstanding this there are still plenty of potential places to quietly anchor for the day or the over night. Much talk is made of the aggressive tides within the harbour, however having visited at the end of August it was neaps and so we were less bothered by current. The approach to the Morbihan is also relatively straight forward so long as a good watch is kept of traffic and the plentiful collision opportunities offered.
What certainly amazed me on approach was the coast number of small motor boats containing les pecheurs who drift around on the tide casting their lines with abandon and when satisfied will then zoom off without any care for vessels around them. It made me smile to think of the offence taken by vessels in the Solent when a motor boat trundles past creating wash. Well if we're more experienced in le facon Francois we would certainly complain much less. It seems that everyone in France has access to a boat and at the end of August they were all out.
Navigating seul abord and keeping a watch is exhausting in this whirlwind. Fortunately in September everyone disappears back to work and the Morbihan returns to a more relaxed style that suits the exploration of the islands. Having entered the Morbihan without a detailed plan I was then challenged to find a place to stop over, not for lack of choice you understand, more because there was a nagging feeling that around every corner might be a spot even more beautiful.
Eventually I picked up a buoy that had lines covered in green slime and looked untended. I found aas a relaxing spot to rest for the evening without the need to go ashore. From the chart it was described as Arradon which now has a marina, ironically just around the next bend! A quiet night in a buoy was very suitable and in fact I stayed for 24 hours before deciding to
explore Vannes.
Vannes is the main city of the Morbihan created around a gentle mix of architecture, Breton stonework leads via meandering lanes to Tudor style timber framed buildings and attractive squares and arches. It is a fine place to spend some time people watching, when I first went there it was a little drizzly.
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